April 9th, 2013
Now that most of the snow and ice has melted (or will melt quickly if more accumulates) we can get out in the yard and check woody plants to see how they have fared over winter.
While planting is out of the question today and probably this weekend, because the soils will be so wet, we can prune most shrubs and perform general clean up. Here’s a guide from the University of Minnesota describing what shrubs and trees you can prune now. Start with your fruit trees and shrubs and get that pruning done before they leaf out.
The first question on your mind might be, “Is this alive?”
How to tell with Deciduous Shrubs
Even though there aren’t any leaves on deciduous shrubs (woody plants that drop their leaves in autumn like lilac, forsythia and viburnum) you can still detect life.
One way is to check to see if the buds are swelling. These can be leaf or flower buds. Below are photos of swelling leaf buds on rose and swelling flower buds on azalea.

Swelling leaf buds on rose. Notice how the stems have color as well rather than an ashy or gray look.

Swelling flower buds on Azalea.
Some trees and shrubs may not exhibit swelling buds or colored stems but are still alive. One way to tell, if you are concerned, is to check the flesh just under the outer layer of bark. You can easily do this by scratching a small spot with your fingernail. If it’s alive that exposed flesh will be green. Here’s a picture (below) of that on raspberry. Some trees and shrubs are very slow to leaf out and you may be tempted to dig it up and replace it. If you do this test and the plant passes, wait a few weeks to see if the plant is alive. Weather, available moisture and soil temperature can be factors in how fast a tree or shrub gets its leaves.

Green tissue under outer layer of bark.
How to tell with Evergreen Shrubs
Even though the leaves may be brown, the plant itself may not be dead. Unlike deciduous shrubs, evergreens send out their new growth for the season in late May or in June. The key here is to check to see if these plants will be able to produce new shoots from those buds. Here are some examples.

This small spruce is showing needle loss but note the fleshy, living buds at the ends of the branches. If you break one off and it's green, it indicates they will make new shoots. This plant is worth saving but it will take a year or two to look more shapely.

It's normal for the older needles to discolor and fall off evergreens like in this example. The year-old shoots look good and, again, you can check the buds by breaking one off as explained in the above image.

This ground cover-type Juniper is showing a great deal of winter damage. You can see some nice foliage underneath the dead stuff. If you have patience you can prune away the dead foliage and see what buds out later in the season. This plant may not look good down the road.
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March 20th, 2013
Check out more about this new pest poised to threaten Minnesota homes and gardens plus more subjects in our current newsletter.
http://drummersgardencenter.com/prune-fruit-trees-now-scout-for-brown-stink-bugs/
In this issue:
Prune fruit trees & some shrubs now
Kids Make & Take
Using Dormant Oil on Fruit Trees to prevent pests
Expert to teach 2 upcoming classes on Birds
Growing Rewards Members-only sales
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March 5th, 2013
Check out the current edition of our newsletter and learn more about the party. Try a tillandsia. Enhance the party with St. Patrick’s Day and Easter flowers & Plants. Extension expert to speak about invasive species and tree choices. Bring your kids to the Kids Make & Take. (Shhhh, these planters make wonderful Mother’s Day gifts for everyone on your list.)
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February 19th, 2013
Check out our latest newsletter and learn more about what seeds to start now and what to start later.
We’ve also included an update on our Annual Flowering Container Make & Take Workshops and we’re encouraging you to get a jump on spring and take one (or more) of our gardening classes.
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February 11th, 2013
Call us at 507-388-4877 and we’ll deliver to your Valentine.

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February 1st, 2013


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January 11th, 2013
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Do you like one or more of these houseplants?
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Stop by Drummers Garden Center & Floral and check out our comprehensive houseplant section. We are happy to help you select the perfect plant(s) to fit your lifestyle and space.
Plus, when you purchase a plant and a pot, we will pot it up at no charge for you. If you want to do it yourself please go ahead and use our planting bench (we’re here to help).
We even repot house plants for you if you bring us one that needs some TLC.
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Jade
Crassula ovata ‘var.’
You may see many different varieties of Jade when you shop. Jade plants are a variety of succulent. Jade needs full sun to light shade to grow. Indoors, bright light works best.
Only water when the soil in the pot is completely dry. When you water, give the plant enough water that the excess will drain out of the hole in the bottom of the pot. Water less frequently in winter. Overwatering Jade will cause it’s leaves to crinkle and drop and/or cause the stem to rot.
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Peace Lily
Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum
Here is one of the few houseplants that will bloom indoors.
Peace Lily is also very adaptable as a houseplant because it will grow in low light conditions but it will also do well in bright, indirect light.
Keep the soil of this plant evenly moist but not soggy. If you forget to water, your Peace Lily will remind you by wilting. If you see yours wilting, just make sure it is thoroughly watered as soon as possible. Try to keep the number of times the plant wilts to a minimum because that will shorten it’s life.
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ZZ Plant
Zamioculcas zamiifolia
Always showing off it’s shiny leaves, the ZZ Plant is unusual in that it will tolerate very low light conditions but it will thrive in bright light.
The secret to being successful with this unusual succulent is to keep it on the dry side and the lower the light conditions, the drier the soil should be kept. So, if you have it in a very low light area don’t water it very frequently at all.
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Dragon Tree
Dracena marginata
The long, strap-like leaves of this popular houseplant have a variety of colors on the edges of the leaf. There are other types of Dracaena available too and most of those have wider leaves and different color combinations.
This plant does best in indirect bright light because the colors on the leaves will be more prominent in those conditions. However, it can survive lower light conditions but the leaves won’t have as much color.
During winter, water thoroughly when the soil in the pot has completely dried out. In warmer weather, keep the soil evenly moist to the dry side.
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Earth Star
Cryptanthus acaulis
These small plants are perfect for tight spaces in homes and offices. Bright light intensifies the leaf colors of pink or variegated earth stars but they will also tolerate lower light conditions.
Earth Stars have sharp tips at the ends of their wavy-edged leaves. They can be combined in groups for even more texture and interest.
In humid rooms they will absorb water through their leaves. Otherwise water when the soil is dry.
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Cactus
Cactus are available in a stunning array of sizes, colors and types. They do best in bright light and look wonderful when planted or displayed together. Most will flower given the right conditions.
Despite their reputation, cactus do need water. Do keep them dry but when their soil is completely dried out, water them enough so the pot drains. Also remove excess water from the drainage tray. In winter, keep them on the dry side.
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Creeping Fig
Ficus pumila
The stems of this houseplant can reach 3-feet. Usually grown as a creeping or hanging plant, you can also train it onto a topiary frame. We also like them in our miniature gardens.
As you can see, it’s available in solid green or variegated forms. Like the other plants, keep the soil a little drier in the winter than during the warmer months. Creeping fig will grow in bright, indirect light but will also tolerate lower light conditions in the green form.
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Wax Plant
Hoya carnosa
This trailing plant can be found in a number of different leaf colors and forms. Just compare the two pictured! They also have lovely and sweet-smelling blossoms if grown in bright, with some direct, light and if it is slightly pot-bound. But, wax plant will also tolerate lower light conditions but they will not bloom in these conditions.
Again, the soil can be kept a bit more moist during the warmer months but keep it on the dry side in the winter months. Once the soil has dried out completely, add enough water so it drains out the bottom of the pot.
Stems with these thick leaves can reach 10-feet long.
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Snake Plant
Sanseveria
Another succulent, this plant will survive very challenging conditions.
These plants with strap-like leaves are available in shorter leaf forms or with longer leaves and there are a variety of leaf color patterns from solid green and green shades to green with yellow or green with white.
Always keep this plant on the dry side but do water it when it is very dry.
Some of you may know this plant has been called Mother-in-law’s tongue because of it’s tenacity. But really, there are lots of really nice mothers-in-law in the world!
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Pothos
Epipremnum aureum
This plant is very easy to grow an you will look like a pro because it has glossy, colorful leaves on stems that can grow over 8-feet long! Display this plant as a hanging basket, on a stand showing off its length or twine the stems on a vertical post in the pot. You can trim the stems near a leaf to encourage more branching.
Choose from florescent green leaves to dark green with white splotches and almost every combination in between including yellow as pictured. Notice the heart-shaped leaves.
Avoid soggy soil by keeping Pothos on the dry side but do water it when it is completely dry. Enjoy keeping this plant in bright to low light conditions; it will even grow under florescent lights in a windowless office!
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July 5th, 2012
It’s really shaping up to be a great year in the garden!
You can just about set your clock on the appearance of some insects in the garden and here are two to watch out for around July 4: Squash Vine Borer and Apple Maggot Fly. Really, start the search about two weeks earlier.
The squash vine borer is the larvae of a colorful moth (left). As the larvae develop, they will kill squash plants. The best thing is to stop the moths. You can kill them by hand. Gardeners can also try setting out yellow dishes that mimic the color of squash blossoms. Fill the dish with about an inch of water. You may attract a few to their death this way.
Also scout for the little red eggs the moths lay at the base of squash plants and get rid of them. If you use insecticides, you can start spraying for this moth as soon as the squash plants begin
to tip over and run.
Another way to control the moths is to limit their access to your squash plants by using a row cover (right). You will have to open it from time to time to allow the plants to pollinate but be sure not to let in an adult moth!
The next thing is to scout for the borer activity itself. As those eggs hatch the larvae bores into the stem of the squash plant at its base (left). Be on the lookout for sawdust-looking frass the borer leaves behind as it dines on your squash stems. This stuff is your indication to cut open the stem with a clean knife or razor blade, kill the borer, dust or spray on Dipel or Turicide which are bT, and mound dirt over the step so it re-roots. This action can often save a plant. Watch out… there may be more than one borer in a stem. If you see the vines wilting that is another sign the borer has found your vines.
Apple maggot fly is out and about now laying its eggs on apples. Make sure you get a spray on your trees to help prevent this pest from July to September. When you spray, either using conventi
onal or natural sprays, remember to spray the tree canopy, its trunk and the ground around it. You can also control apple maggot fly by using sticky traps in your trees. The number of traps used depends on the size of the tree. Once purchased, these traps should last for years and all you need to purchase again is the sticky stuff that coats the ball and ensnares the fly. They do need to be cleaned periodically and then apply new sticky stuff.
Control of apple maggot fly will reduce the amount of apples you harvest that are dimpled or have larvae inside of them (not the most appetizing bite!).
Of course, we are happy to help you further with these and other pests, help you learn what methods you want to use to control pests and have these products on hand for purchase.
Also, see a post below with our handy spray schedule for fruit trees.
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